ERICE, Italy — "You don't come here to see sights, you come here to be here," I was told by one native of this walled town that crowns an isolated mountain 2,400 feet above the port city of ...

Reporting from Erice, Italy — The glass case at Maria Grammatico’s Pasticceria del Convento in the hilltop town of Erice displays treasures worthy of a Swiss bank. I sought out this particular ...