I’m in Namibia’s most-celebrated national park, Etosha, beside 50-metre-wide Okaukuejo ... As I creep past its upmarket chalets to the public campsite, it’s dark, but the Milky Way glimmers ...

Alongside Kruger, Etosha offers the easiest self-drive ... watching nocturnal animals slake their own thirst. For self-drive ...

"People know it's wrong, and the punishment is quite severe," says my guide, Abel Kuyonisa, as our safari van heads out for a sunrise game viewing in Etosha, home to 114 mammal, 110 reptile and ...