Aug. 29—While searching for an island campsite near the ruins of a submerged village in western Maine's Flagstaff Lake the other day, I stopped kayaking to study a map. "It's got to be here ...

It took 21 winters in Flagstaff, but it finally happened Saturday: I ski-skated nearly the length of upper Lake Mary as if I were in Maine. To those who know me, this is a tall compliment. Lake ...