Almost 13 years have passed since a pope spent part of his summer at the papal residence of Castel Gandolfo, a hilltop town overlooking Lake Albano, just outside Rome. So, when Pope Leo XIV arrived at the Barberini Palace on Sunday (July 6),

Overlooking Lake Albano on a hill south of Rome, Castel Gandolfo was for centuries a much-loved papal summer retreat — until Pope Francis renounced both the estate and summer holidays.

In his very first sermon as pontiff, Pope Leo XIV told the cardinals who elected him that anyone who exercises authority in the Catholic Church must “make oneself small,” so that only Christ remains.