John MacLeod, site manager at Scottish Sea Farms, Lismore North farm, holds a salmon in Oban, Scotland. JEFF J MITCHELL / GETTY IMAGES China has a fast-growing appetite for fresh and smoked salmon ...

It’s reached that magical Autumnal golden hour, and as day turns to dusk outside, not even the smoked salmon ... the new 1635 fine-dining restaurant rather than a lesson in Scottish history ...