I’ve pickled white pearl onions and even drained and re-brined the mediocre store-bought kind, but according to Dorman, you should always start with the raw alliums and go for red, if possible.

The pickled onions at most bars were pretty gross ... even if you only use one kind. Don’t have white wine to spare? You can use dry vermouth, dry sherry (Fino or Manzanilla) or dry marsala.

Add ramp vinegar, white soy sauce, and remaining 1 teaspoon salt; stir to combine. Cut pickled ramps in half lengthwise, and chop crosswise into about 1/4- to 1/2- inch pieces. Ladle soup evenly ...