For those who haven’t dined at Torishiki, the chicken-themed omakase in New York is “not much different” from the menu offered in Japan. Before Torien’s opening last year, Ikegawa-san came ...

Karsten Moran for The New York Times The food is prepared ... Sushi Amane in Midtown did not mean that his restaurant was as good as Sushi Saito. Torien is not Torishiki, either.

his esteemed wagyu tasting-menu restaurant in Tokyo. As he rapidly seared a paper-thin cut of beef tongue over a shoe box-size grill, he continued: “His finger nails have melted off because of ...