Discover how wave refraction works, why it happens and how it affects surfing in this easy-to-understand guide.

Discover how wave refraction works, why it happens and how it affects surfing in this easy-to-understand guide.

There are many glorious science-based terms when it comes to surfing. We all talk about swells, of course, the underwater energy that creates a breaking wave.

Why it made the list: “This lifeguarded beach is the number one surfing spot on the U.S. Atlantic Coast as the large offshore sand banks, known as Diamond Shoals, cause wave refraction focusing ...

Refraction is the change in direction of a wave as it travels from one medium to another. For instance, when light travels from air to glass or water waves travel from deep to shallow water.

Now, you may see these two used interchangeably in ocean waves because we often see swell encountering an Island and both refraction and diffraction will occur in this case.

We experimentally demonstrate negative refraction of the longitudinal elastic wave at the deep-subwavelength scale in the metamaterial fabricated in a stainless steel plate.

Off the California coast, big-wave surfers are 'canaries in the coal mine,' as climate change makes the famed Mavericks beach ever angrier.

And the best spot on the planet to observe extreme wave refraction is Nazaré. The large, deepwater Nazaré Canyon has the potential to significantly amplify the surf at the beach just to the ...