This is an impressive non alcoholic red wine and, at $38 a bottle, it’s one you’ll probably reserve for dinner parties thrown by people you actually care about impressing. Or, what the hell.

A pleasurable non-alcoholic red wine is the Holy Grail of the alcohol-free beverage world. While finding decent non-alcoholic whites and pinks is becoming easier, the reds still lag far behind.

Yes, there are non-alcoholic red wines made by vacuum distillation or reverse osmosis—a process that removes the alcohol from fermented grapes. While some of these wines may retain traces of ...