So what was this one doing in the middle of a busy construction site on an island in Georgian Bay ... led us through the evocatively named Hole in the Wall and the preternaturally green Hemlock ...

Hole in the Wall Coffee, 524 Union St., San Francisco. Open daily, 8 a.m.-3 p.m. Madeline Wells is a senior food reporter at SFGATE, where she has covered the Bay Area restaurant scene since 2019.