Once the potatoes are pushed through the rack, you’re free to doctor them as you like. Add some gently warmed cream, a little mayo, lots of butter, and (maybe) a pinch of MSG.

The potatoes will cook more uniformly if you can hold them off the pan bottom by using a wire or metal rack. Otherwise, wrap them in foil to prevent the bottoms from overcooking or scorching.

4 tablespoons butter. Salt and pepper to taste. Boil potatoes in salted water until tender when pierced with a fork. Strain potatoes and mash with butter.