That day, its chalkboard menu advertised something called Lea’s Amazing Soup, which turned out to be sweet-and-sour cabbage. Hammel ordered the soup and began talking to Lea herself. Her full ...

It is a soup that’s all about balance. The first spoonful is both sweet and sour, with a deeply rich color that belies an effortlessly sippable broth. Fresh herbs like dill and cilantro are the ...